GrailAtlasAn independent reference for mechanical watches

Movement bestiary

Every caliber in the Grail Atlas catalog, classified into one of four tiers (plus the honest “unclassified” bucket). The tier is a small additive lift to the Reliability rating. never an overrule. Owner-verified data still dominates.

Manufacture (in-house)

Brand-designed, brand-produced. Service is brand-direct, expensive, and long. The market rewards these meaningfully.

  • 5165R (automatic, peripheral rotor, 45h reserve)
  • 517F (automatic, anti-magnetic, 38h reserve)
  • 569 (hand-wind, in-house, peripheral rotor visible, 50h reserve)
  • 777Q (hand-wind, in-house, 70h reserve)
  • AK-06 (hand-wound, in-house)
  • AP Caliber 2120 (automatic, perpetual calendar, 40-hour power reserve)
  • AP Caliber 2325/2810 (automatic, 40-hour power reserve)
  • AP Caliber 2924 (automatic, tourbillon, 120-hour power reserve)
  • AP Caliber 3120 (automatic, 60-hour power reserve)
  • AP Caliber 4101 (manual-wind, off-center skeleton dial, 72-hour power reserve)
  • AP Caliber 5100 (automatic, GMT function, 70-hour power reserve)
  • Cal. 28 (hand-wound, in-house, 28-tooth direct-impulse escapement)
  • Cal. 28 (hand-wound, in-house)
  • Cal. 28 GMR (hand-wound, in-house)
  • Calibre Initial Chronograph (cam-actuated; developed with a Swiss manufacture)
  • Calibre Royal (in-house automatic; 96h power reserve)
  • Calibre Royal Manuel (in-house hand-wound; 100h power reserve)
  • Cartier Caliber 1611 MC (manual-wind, ultra-thin, 72-hour power reserve)
  • Cartier Caliber 1847 MC (automatic, in-house)
  • Cartier Caliber 1904-CH MC (automatic, in-house)
  • Cartier Caliber 1917 MC (manual-wind, in-house)
  • Chanel/Kenissi Cal. 12.1 -- automatic, 28,800bph, 68h PR, 29j; co-developed with Tudor/Kenissi; used in J12 38mm; sapphire case-back visible movement
  • CVDK7382 (automatic; 96h power reserve)
  • CVDK7836 (automatic; 96h power reserve, twin barrels)
  • DB2105 (hand-wound, in-house)
  • DB2115v4 (hand-wound, in-house, balance with silicon/platinum inertia weights)
  • De Bethune Caliber DB2019 (manual-wind, titanium balance, 6-day power reserve)
  • De Bethune DB2019v2 (hand-wound, flying tourbillon, silicon/platinum balance, 6-day power reserve)
  • De Bethune DB2109 (hand-wound, seconds tourbillon, 6-day power reserve)
  • El Primero 3600 (1/10s chronograph, 60h reserve)
  • El Primero 3620 (1/10s seconds, 60h reserve)
  • El Primero 400B (36,000 vph, tri-color integrated chronograph)
  • Elite 6150 (automatic, 28,800 vph, 50h reserve)
  • Elite 670 SK (automatic, skeleton, open-worked)
  • F.P. Journe Cal. 1300 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 120h (5-day) PR; remontoire d'egalite constant-force mechanism delivers consistent torque to the escapement; natural escapement without lever
  • FB-RE.FC (hand-wound, in-house, regulator-style dial)
  • FP Journe Cal. 1300.3 -- manual-wind with jumping seconds and power reserve, 18,000bph, 40h PR; platinum rotor when in gold case; Octa Automatique caliber
  • FP Journe Cal. 1304 -- manual-wind, in-house, 21,600bph, 56h PR from twin parallel barrels; 18k rose gold movement; used in Chronometre Souverain and Chronometre Bleu
  • FP Journe Cal. 1506 -- in-house manual-wind chronograph, 21,600bph, 40h PR; the Centigraphe -- 1/100th-second mechanism; unique pulsometer and 10-minute counter
  • FP Journe Cal. 1519 -- manual-wind tourbillon, 18,000bph, 40h PR; 18k rose gold gilt movement, remontoir d'egalite; used in Tourbillon Souverain
  • FP Journe Cal. 1520 -- manual-wind twin-movement resonance, 18,000bph, 40h PR; two coupled movements regulate each other via air resonance; world-first in wristwatches
  • Girard-Perregaux Caliber GP09800 (manual-wind, tourbillon, three titanium bridges, 60-hour power reserve)
  • Greubel Forsey Balancier Convexe (in-house)
  • Greubel Forsey Double Balancier (in-house, twin coupled balances)
  • Greubel Forsey GMT Sport (in-house, hand-finished)
  • Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 (≈95% hand-built including hairspring)
  • Heuer 02 (in-house automatic chronograph)
  • IWC Caliber 35111 (automatic, date, 42-hour power reserve)
  • MB&F Caliber HM9 (automatic, twin turbines regulate winding, power-reserve indicator, 72-hour power reserve)
  • MB&F HM11 (in-house, designed with Eric Giroud)
  • MB&F LM FlyingT (developed with Stephen McDonnell)
  • MB&F LM Sequential (developed with Stephen McDonnell)
  • MB&F LM101 (developed with Kari Voutilainen)
  • Moritz Grossmann Caliber 100.1 (manual-wind, 42-hour power reserve, Grossmann regulator)
  • Omega Cal. 2500C -- Co-Axial automatic, 25,200bph, 48h PR, 27j; anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss; used in the mid-size De Ville Prestige
  • Omega Cal. 3220 -- automatic integrated chronograph, 28,800bph, 44h PR, 37j; column-wheel, vertical clutch; used in reduced-size Speedmaster
  • Omega Cal. 3330 -- Co-Axial automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 52h PR, 37j; column-wheel, Co-Axial escapement; used in Speedmaster Mark II re-edition
  • Omega Cal. 3861 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer, manual-wind, 21,600bph, 50h PR, 33j; column-wheel, METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss
  • Omega Cal. 561 -- automatic, 18,000bph, 44h PR, 24j; bumper rotor predecessor to 562; used in pie-pan Constellation from late 1950s
  • Omega Cal. 8400 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic, 25,200bph, 60h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss; used in Seamaster 300 and Railmaster
  • Omega Cal. 8500 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic, 25,200bph, 60h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic; used in De Ville Hour Vision lines
  • Omega Cal. 8501 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic, 25,200bph, 60h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic; used in Constellation Modern 41
  • Omega Cal. 8600 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic, 25,200bph, 55h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss
  • Omega Cal. 8800 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic, 25,200bph, 55h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss, Naiad Lock
  • Omega Cal. 8900 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic, 25,200bph, 60h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss; used in Aqua Terra and De Ville
  • Omega Cal. 8901 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic with annual calendar, 25,200bph, 60h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic; Globemaster-exclusive
  • Omega Cal. 8912 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic, 25,200bph, 55h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss
  • Omega Cal. 8912 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer, manual-wind, 25,200bph, 60h PR, 32j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss; ultra-thin 3.98mm profile
  • Omega Cal. 8922 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer with annual calendar, 25,200bph, 60h PR; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss; Globemaster Annual Calendar caliber
  • Omega Cal. 8938 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer with GMT, 25,200bph, 55h PR, 30j; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic to 15,000 gauss; Aqua Terra GMT caliber
  • Omega Cal. 9900 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 60h PR; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic; used in Speedmaster Racing
  • Omega Cal. 9904 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer manual-wind with moon phase, 21,600bph, 60h PR; METAS-certified; used in Speedmaster Moonphase
  • Omega Cal. 9906 -- Co-Axial Master Chronometer manual-wind, 21,600bph, 60h PR; METAS-certified, anti-magnetic; recreated for Speedmaster 57 re-edition
  • Omega Co-Axial Caliber 2500C (automatic, 48-hour power reserve)
  • Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8800 (automatic, 40-hour power reserve)
  • Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806 (automatic, anti-magnetic 15,000 gauss, 55-hour power reserve)
  • Orient Caliber F6922 (automatic, in-house, 40-hour power reserve)
  • Panerai Caliber P.5000 (manual-wind, 8-day power reserve)
  • Patek Philippe Caliber 215 PS (manual-wind, 8-day power reserve, small seconds)
  • Richard Mille Caliber RM27-03 (manual-wind, tourbillon, shock-resistant to 10,000g)
  • Richard Mille Caliber RMAC3 (automatic, flyback chronograph, annual calendar, 55-hour power reserve)
  • Richard Mille Caliber RMAS7 (manual-wind, skeletonized, 55-hour power reserve)
  • Roger Dubuis Caliber RD01SQ (manual-wind, double flying tourbillon, 40-hour power reserve)
  • Roger Dubuis Caliber RD620 (automatic, skeletonized, micro-rotor, 60-hour power reserve)
  • Roger W. Smith Caliber Series 3 (hand-wound, co-axial escapement, 60h power reserve)
  • Roger W. Smith Caliber Series 4 (manual-wind, co-axial-inspired English lever, 60-hour power reserve)
  • Roger W. Smith Caliber Series 5 (hand-wound, open-dial movement architecture, co-axial escapement, 60h power reserve)
  • Rolex Cal. 1556 -- in-house automatic, 18,000bph, 44h PR, 25j; used in Day-Date 1803 from 1970s; quickset date predecessor; Rolex gilt movement era
  • Rolex Cal. 1570 -- in-house automatic, 19,800bph, 44h PR, 26j; Glucydur balance, self-compensating Microstella regulator; COSC-certified
  • Rolex Cal. 1570 -- in-house automatic, 19,800bph, 44h PR, 26j; used in vintage Datejust 1601; non-quickset date; COSC-certified Superlative Chronometer
  • Rolex Cal. 1575 -- in-house automatic, 19,800bph, 44h PR, 26j; used in Submariner 1680; non-quickset date; Rolex workhorse caliber from 1960s-70s
  • Rolex Cal. 2236 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 55h PR, 31j; silicon Syloxi hairspring; used in Lady-Datejust 28; Rolex first silicon hairspring caliber
  • Rolex Cal. 3085 -- in-house automatic GMT, 19,800bph, 48h PR, 31j; used in GMT-Master 16700; predecessor to 3185; 24-hour hand independently set
  • Rolex Cal. 3130 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 48h PR, 31j; Parachrom hairspring, Glucydur balance; predecessor to 3135
  • Rolex Cal. 3131 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 48h PR, 31j; soft iron inner cage anti-magnetic; used in Milgauss 116400; paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring
  • Rolex Cal. 3132 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 48h PR, 31j; Parachrom hairspring, Glucydur balance; used in Cellini Time and Milgauss; simple time-only
  • Rolex Cal. 3135 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 48h PR, 31j; Parachrom hairspring, Glucydur balance; long-running COSC-certified movement
  • Rolex Cal. 3185 -- in-house automatic GMT, 28,800bph, 48h PR, 31j; bidirectional rotor, Parachrom hairspring; predecessor to current 3285
  • Rolex Cal. 3230 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 31j; Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring; no date — the purist Explorer configuration; 36mm re-set to original dimensions
  • Rolex Cal. 3230 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 31j; Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring; no-date variant used in Submariner 124060
  • Rolex Cal. 3235 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 31j; Chronergy escapement, paramagnetic Parachrom hairspring, Superlative Chronometer
  • Rolex Cal. 3255 -- in-house automatic with day and date, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 31j; Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring; used in Day-Date 40
  • Rolex Cal. 3285 -- in-house automatic GMT, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 31j; Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring; black/blue bicolor Cerachrom bezel insert (the "Batman" colorway)
  • Rolex Cal. 3285 -- in-house automatic GMT, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 31j; Chronergy escapement, Parachrom hairspring; successor to 3185 with increased PR
  • Rolex Cal. 4030 -- base Zenith El Primero, modified to 28,800bph (down from 36,000bph), 50h PR, 31j; column-wheel; Rolex replaced El Primero escapement
  • Rolex Cal. 4130 -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 72h PR, 44j; column-wheel, vertical clutch, integrated construction; no cam-and-lever system
  • Rolex Cal. 9001 -- in-house automatic with annual calendar and second time zone, 28,800bph, 72h PR, 34j; Saros annual calendar; used in Sky-Dweller
  • RR-02 (hand-wound, in-house, Faraday-cage anti-magnetic)
  • SISTEM51 (51 parts, no screws, in-house)
  • Smith Co-Axial (hand-wound, in-house, single-wheel co-axial)
  • Smith Co-Axial (hand-wound, in-house, with retrograde date)
  • Ulysse Nardin Caliber UN-150 (automatic, flyback chronograph, silicon components, 60-hour power reserve)
  • Urwerk Caliber UR 5.03 (self-winding via AMC system, satellite hours, 48-hour power reserve)
  • Urwerk Caliber UR 7.10 (self-winding, turbine winding regulator, satellite hours, power-reserve indicator)
  • Voutilainen Caliber V-18 (manual-wind, in-house, observatory-grade regulation, 60-hour power reserve)
  • Voutilainen V-08T (hand-wound in-house, peripheral one-minute tourbillon, 60h power reserve)

Top-tier supplier

Widely-used high-end supplier movements (Eta 2892, Valjoux 7750, etc). Robust, well-understood, broadly serviceable.

  • Alpina Cal. AL-525 -- ETA 2892-A2 base, Alpina-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 21j; used in Alpiner 4 and Seastrong Diver; Alpina sport watch workhorse
  • Alpina Cal. AL-860 -- ETA 2892-A2 base with power reserve indicator module, 28,800bph, 38h PR; used in Startimer Pilot; Alpina military pilot watch platform
  • Bell & Ross Cal. BR-CAL.301 -- ETA 2894 base, BR-modified chronograph, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 37j; used in BR 03-94 Chronograph; column-wheel mechanism
  • Bell & Ross Cal. BR-CAL.302 -- automatic, ETA 2892-A2 base, BR-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; skull motif skeletonised dial; signature BR avant-garde complication
  • Bell & Ross Cal. BR-CAL.302 -- automatic, ETA 2892-A2 base, BR-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; used in BR 03-92 and BR 03-92 Diver; military aviation aesthetic
  • Bell & Ross Cal. BR-CAL.313 -- ETA 2893-2 base, BR-modified GMT, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; used in BR V2-93 Belfast; independently set 24h GMT hand
  • Breitling Cal. 13 -- ETA Valjoux 7750 base, Breitling-modified, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; COSC-certified; used in Avenger Chrono 43
  • Breitling Cal. 41 -- ETA 7753 base, Breitling-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 17j; COSC-certified; used in Top Time Triumph re-edition
  • Bremont Cal. BE-50AE -- modified ETA Valjoux 7750, Bremont-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in ALT1-C; chronograph with Bremont rotor engraving
  • Bremont Cal. BE-92AE -- Sellita SW300-1 base, Bremont-modified, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; used in Supermarine S301; tripartite case construction
  • Calibre 11 (automatic, column-wheel chronograph, micro-rotor)
  • Cartier Cal. 049 -- ETA 2892-A2 base, Cartier-decorated, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; used in Ballon Bleu 42; Cartier-finished rotor and bridges
  • Corum Cal. CO 082 -- ETA 2892 base, Corum-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Admiral Cup Auto 42; Corum admiral pennant dial with NATO colors
  • Corum Cal. CO 295 -- ETA 2892 base, Corum-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Bubble Auto 47; fun convex sapphire lens focuses on the rotor
  • Customised ETA 2892 + ROCS 1.3 module
  • Customised ETA 2892/A + ROCS 2 + e-Crown electromechanical module (87 components)
  • Ebel Cal. 100 -- ETA 2892 base, Ebel-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; used in Wave Auto 36; Ebel-decorated slim movement for elegant wave-case dress watches
  • ETA 2892-A2 -- Swiss automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; slim profile at 3.6mm; used in Baume & Mercier Riviera; versatile high-grade Swiss ebauche
  • ETA 2893-2 -- automatic GMT, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; home and local time via inner 24h ring and color-differentiated GMT hand; improved case from 17.01
  • ETA 2893-2 -- Swiss automatic GMT, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; third time-zone hand; used in Sinn 856 and Sinn U2; reliable workhorse GMT caliber
  • ETA 2894-2 -- Swiss automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 37j; column-wheel, bidirectional winding; used in Tissot Heritage 1948 chrono
  • ETA 6498-1 -- manual-wind, 18,000bph, 46h PR, 17j; fume enamel dial is the brand's signature: gradient-dyed enamel kiln-fired at Anordain's Glasgow workshop, each dial unique
  • ETA 6498-1 -- manual-wind, 18,000bph, 46h PR, 17j; hand-wound; large-format movement chosen to fill the 38mm case with visual honesty; decorated to Anordain spec
  • ETA 6498-1 -- Swiss manual-wind pocket-watch-derived caliber, 18,000bph, 46h PR, 17j; large movement with small seconds at 6; used in Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde
  • ETA 6498-1 (manual-wind, 52-hour power reserve, modified for moonphase)
  • ETA 7753 (column-wheel chronograph, automatic, 48-hour power reserve)
  • ETA C01.211 -- Valjoux 7750 base, Swiss automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Certina DS8 Chrono; cam-and-lever workhorse chronograph
  • ETA C07.611 Powermatic 80 -- Swiss automatic, 21,600bph, 80h PR, 21j; used in Certina DS-1 and DS-Action; Swatch Group 80-hour platform; silicon hairspring available
  • ETA Powermatic 80 (Tissot) -- Swiss automatic, 21,600bph, 80h PR, 21j; Tissot-branded ETA Powermatic 80; used in PRX, Le Locle, and Seastar 1000
  • ETA Powermatic 80 Silicium (Tissot) -- Swiss automatic with silicon hairspring, 21,600bph, 80h PR, 21j; increased anti-magnetic performance; Gentleman Powermatic
  • ETA Powermatic 80.811 (Tissot) -- Swiss automatic with date, 21,600bph, 80h PR, 21j; used in Heritage Visodate; Tissot-branded Powermatic 80 variant
  • ETA/Valjoux 7750 -- Swiss automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; cam-and-lever system (column-wheel optional), workhorse chronograph ebauche
  • ETA/Valjoux 7750 -- Swiss automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; cam-and-lever system; used in Baume & Mercier Clifton Commander; workhorse ebauche
  • Hamilton Cal. H-10 -- ETA C07.611 base, 28,800bph, 80h PR, 21j; used in Hamilton Murph; extended power reserve automatic
  • Hamilton Cal. H-10 -- ETA C07.611 base, 28,800bph, 80h PR, 21j; used in Khaki Field, Navy Scuba, Jazzmaster; excellent value 80-hour automatic
  • Hamilton Cal. H-31 -- ETA 7753 base, Hamilton-modified, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 17j; column-wheel added; used in Intra-matic Chronograph H
  • IWC Cal. 30110 -- Sellita SW300 base, in-house finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; IWC-decorated with anti-reflective finish
  • IWC Cal. 32111 -- Sellita SW300-1 base, in-house finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; IWC decorated and certified; used in Mark XX and Ingenieur 40
  • IWC Cal. 32111 -- Sellita SW300-1 base, IWC-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Ingenieur 40 and Mark XX; IWC decorated and certified
  • IWC Cal. 35111 -- automatic, Pellaton winding, 42h PR, 21j; in-house finish; 4 Hz; Sellita SW300 base architecture
  • IWC Cal. 37524 -- ETA 2892-A2 base, IWC-decorated, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; IWC finishing and rotor engraving; used in Mark XV
  • IWC Cal. 79320 -- Valjoux 7750 base, IWC-decorated, 28,800bph, 44h PR, 25j; used in Portofino Chrono and Pilot Chrono 3777
  • IWC Cal. 79350 -- Valjoux 7750 base, IWC-modified, 28,800bph, 44h PR, 25j; column-wheel added, IWC-finished rotor; used in Portugieser Chrono 3714
  • Junghans Cal. J880.1 -- ETA Valjoux 7750 base, Junghans-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Max Bill Chronoscope; Bauhaus design with flyback chronograph
  • Junghans Cal. J880.4 -- ETA Valjoux 7750 base, Junghans-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Meister Pilot and Form C; Bauhaus pilot-watch styling with chronograph
  • Longines Cal. L687 -- ETA A08.L11 base, Longines-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Master Collection Chronograph; column-wheel mechanism
  • Longines Cal. L699 -- ETA A07.L01 base, Longines-finished, 21,600bph, 42h PR; used in Lindbergh Hour Angle Watch; sector dial navigation timepiece
  • Longines Cal. L844.4 -- ETA A31.L11 GMT base with silicon hairspring, 25,200bph, 64h PR; used in Spirit Zulu Time; independently adjustable local time hand
  • Longines Cal. L888 -- ETA A31 automatic base, 25,200bph, 64h PR; used in Flagship Dress and Dolcevita; Longines standard automatic platform
  • Longines Cal. L888.2 -- ETA A31 automatic, 25,200bph, 64h PR; used in Hydroconquest 41; standard Longines automatic for sport and tool watches
  • Longines Cal. L888.4 -- ETA A31.L01 base with silicon hairspring, 25,200bph, 64h PR, 21j; used in Conquest Classic and Flagship Dress; silicon anti-shock and anti-magnetic
  • Longines Cal. L888.4 -- ETA A31.L01 base with silicon hairspring, 25,200bph, 64h PR, 21j; used in Spirit 40 and Hydroconquest Modern; excellent value automatic
  • Longines Cal. L888.4 -- ETA A31.L01 base, column-wheel chronograph, 25,200bph, 64h PR, 21j; used in Master Chronograph; Longines column-wheel at excellent price
  • Longines Cal. L896 -- ETA A31.L01 base, Longines-finished, 25,200bph, 64h PR, 21j; used in Conquest Heritage; silicon hairspring, excellent value
  • Manufacture caliber (Andreas Strehler base + in-house planetarium module; 60h power reserve)
  • Maurice Lacroix Cal. ML134 -- ETA 7753 base, ML-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in AIKON Chrono 44; cam-and-lever chronograph with ML sport finishing
  • Mido Caliber 80 -- ETA C07.621 base, Mido-finished, 21,600bph, 80h PR, 21j; used in Mido Multifort Patrimony and Ocean Star; excellent value 80-hour automatic
  • Mido Caliber 80 -- ETA C07.651 base (date display variant), 21,600bph, 80h PR, 21j; used in Commander Big Date; big date aperture module
  • Mido Caliber 80 Si -- ETA C07.621 base with silicon hairspring, 21,600bph, 80h PR, 21j; improved anti-magnetic and anti-shock vs standard Caliber 80
  • Muhle Cal. MU 9408 -- Sellita SW510M base, modified flyback chronograph, 28,800bph, 48h PR, 27j; used in Teutonia IV Chronograph
  • Raymond Weil Cal. RW1212 -- ETA 2892-A2 base, RW-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Freelancer and Maestro; clean finishing for RW dress and sport watches
  • Sellita SW300-1 -- Swiss automatic, ETA 2892-A2 functional equivalent, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Baume & Mercier Classima; thin profile for dress watches
  • Sellita SW510M -- Swiss manual-wind, 262Hz (extremely high frequency), 28,800bph, 45h PR; used in Bulova Lunar Pilot; high-frequency accuracy standard
  • TAG Heuer Calibre 7 -- Sellita SW330 base, TAG-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR; automatic GMT; used in Autavia GMT
  • Tissot Cal. A05.H31 -- Valjoux 7753 base, Tissot-modified, 28,800bph, 42h PR; counters at 3, 6, and 9; used in PRX Chronograph
  • Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-815 -- ETA 2892 base, UN-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Classico Auto 40; silicon components added for anti-magnetic performance
  • Universal Geneve Cal. UG 2894-2 -- ETA 2894-2 automatic with date, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 37j; used in Compax re-edition; column-wheel chronograph tribute piece
  • Universal Geneve Cal. UG 7750 -- ETA 7750 base, column-wheel, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Diver Chrono (300m); heavy-duty version adapted for dive watch housing
  • Universal Geneve Cal. UG 7750 -- ETA Valjoux 7750 base with column-wheel upgrade, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Aero Compax re-edition; UG heritage chronograph
  • Vaucher VMF 5401 (automatic, micro-rotor; 50h power reserve)
  • Zenith Cal. 3019 PHC -- El Primero manual-wind column-wheel chronograph, 36,000bph, 50h PR, 31j; 1/10s chronograph precision; launched 1969

Mid-tier supplier

Honest workhorse calibers (Eta 2824, Sellita SW200, Miyota 9015). Modest service cost; widely understood.

  • Ball Cal. RR1102 -- ETA 2824-2 base, Ball-modified, COSC-certified, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Engineer Hydrocarbon NEDU; certified for naval dive operations
  • Ball Cal. RR1201 -- ETA 2824-2 base, Ball-modified, COSC-certified, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Engineer III Maverick; tritium gas tube illumination
  • Ball Caliber RR1102-C (automatic, ETA 2824-2 base, COSC chronometer, 38-hour power reserve)
  • Breitling Cal. 17 -- ETA 2824-2 base, Breitling-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; COSC-certified; used in Superocean 42; reliable sport automatic
  • Bremont Cal. BE-36AE -- modified ETA 2836-2, Bremont-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; day-date display; used in MBII
  • Bremont Cal. BE-92AV -- Sellita SW260-1 base, Bremont-modified, 28,800bph, 38h PR; used in Solo 37; robust slim profile for dress/pilot hybrid
  • Cartier Cal. 2671 -- ETA 2671 base, automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Tank Americaine large; Cartier-signed rotor
  • Customised ETA 2824/2 + ROCS 3 module (oil-filled upper chamber, 3.57 ml)
  • Customised ETA 2824/2 + ROCS 5 module (oil-filled upper chamber, 37.5 ml)
  • Ebel Cal. 137 -- ETA 2824 base, Ebel-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; used in Sport Classic 40 and 1911 Auto; Ebel standard automatic platform
  • ETA 2671 -- Swiss automatic, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 17j; exceptionally thin at 2.5mm; used in Rado True Thinline; ladys automatic, micro-rotor bidirectional winding
  • ETA 2824-2 -- automatic, 28,800bph, 38h PR; slimmer dress variant; 36mm case with matched bracelet; dial language shared with the 17-series but scaled for smaller wrists
  • ETA 2824-2 -- Swiss automatic, 28,800bph, 38-42h PR, 25j; lever escapement; workhorse mid-range movement used across many Swiss brands
  • ETA 2824-2 -- Swiss automatic, 28,800bph, 38-42h PR, 25j; used in Movado Museum Auto and Series 800; reliable Swiss ebauche in wide production use
  • ETA 2824-2 (automatic, 38-hour power reserve)
  • ETA 2824-2 (automatic, Swiss Made, 38-hour power reserve)
  • ETA 2824-2 + Dubois-Depraz moonphase module -- automatic, 28,800bph, 38h PR; lunar display accurate to one day's error in 122 years; applied Arabic numerals; matched integrated bracelet
  • ETA 2824-2 Elabore -- automatic, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; regulated and cased by Ming; applied indices; distinctive integrated bracelet; movement finished to standard above the Elabore grade
  • ETA 2836-2 -- Swiss automatic with day and date, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; variant of 2824 with full calendar; used in Damasko DA46 and Bremont MBII
  • Fortis Caliber F-2000 (ETA 2824-2 base, automatic, 38-hour power reserve)
  • Hamilton Cal. H-40 -- ETA 2834-2 base, Hamilton-modified, 28,800bph, 42h PR; day-date display; used in Jazzmaster Maestro Auto
  • Hamilton Cal. H-50 -- ETA 2801-2 base, manual-wind, 21,600bph, 80h PR, 17j; used in Khaki Field Mechanical; Hamilton-modified for increased power reserve
  • Junghans Cal. J800.1 -- ETA 2824-2 base, Junghans-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; used in Max Bill Auto and Meister Driver; clean German Bauhaus aesthetic
  • Junghans Cal. J815.1 -- ETA Peseux 7001 base, manual-wind, 21,600bph, 45h PR, 17j; used in Meister Hand Winding; classic thin manual-wind for Bauhaus dress watches
  • Longines Cal. L595 -- ETA 2895-1 base, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in DolceVita and Conquest Classic; reliable Longines automatic in rectangular case
  • Longines Cal. L595 -- ETA 2895-1 base, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Presence; clean three-hand automatic with seconds at 6 o'clock; no date version available
  • Longines Cal. L609 -- ETA 2895-2 base, Longines-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Heritage 1945; classic Longines small-seconds automatic
  • Longines Cal. L888.2 -- ETA 2801-2 base, manual-wind, 21,600bph, 42h PR, 17j; used in Présence 35mm; pure dress movement with no complications, optimized for thinness
  • Maurice Lacroix Cal. ML112 -- ETA 2824 base, ML-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; used in Pontos Auto 40; ML dress watch foundation caliber
  • Oris Cal. 733 -- Sellita SW200-1 base, Oris-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; used in Aquis Date Relief 43.5; reliable sport automatic for Oris diver lineup
  • Oris Cal. 733 -- Sellita SW200-1 base, Oris-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; used in Artelier Date; reliable ETA-equivalent for Oris dress watches
  • Oris Cal. 733 -- Sellita SW200-1 base, Oris-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; used in Divers 65 and Aquis Date; Oris rotor and decoration
  • Oris Cal. 751 -- Sellita SW220-1 base, Oris-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR; pointer-type day-date display; used in Big Crown ProPilot Date
  • Oris Cal. 754 -- Sellita SW200-1 base, Oris-modified for pointer date, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; classic Oris pointer-date complication
  • Seiko Caliber 8L35 (automatic, in-house, 50-hour power reserve)
  • Sellita SW200-1 -- Swiss automatic, ETA 2824-2 functional equivalent, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; used across many mid-range and tool watch brands
  • Sellita SW200-1 -- Swiss automatic, ETA 2824-2 functional equivalent, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; used across many mid-range tool watch brands
  • Soprod A10 base (automatic) with Sarpaneva moonphase module
  • TAG Heuer Calibre 5 -- Sellita SW200 base, TAG-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; used in Aquaracer Professional 300
  • TAG Heuer Calibre 5 (TH20-00) -- Sellita SW200-1 base, TAG-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; used in Carrera Date and Formula 1; TAG entry-level automatic
  • Tudor T600 -- ETA 2824-2 base, Tudor-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; used in 1926 and Black Bay 36; reliable ETA-based automatic
  • Tudor T601 -- ETA 2824-2 base, Tudor-finished, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; used in Royal 38; entry Tudor movement with standard reliability

Entry tier

Entry-tier movements (Miyota 8215, NH35). Fine at the price point; service is cheap, replacement often more cost-effective.

  • Bvlgari Cal. BVL 191P -- quartz; mechanical versions use BVL 100 hand-wind caliber; Serpenti is Bvlgari's most iconic jewellery-watch line
  • Citizen Cal. E168 -- Eco-Drive light-powered, no battery, 28,800bph equivalent quartz accuracy; used in Promaster Marine BN0191; solar-powered non-mechanical movement
  • Citizen Cal. H001 -- Eco-Drive light-powered quartz, charged via solar cell; used in Eco-Drive One AQ4060; thinnest Eco-Drive at 1.0mm movement height
  • Miyota 8215 -- Japanese automatic, 21,600bph, 42h PR, 21j; used in Bulova Marine Star; Citizen-owned Miyota; reliable mid-range movement widely used
  • NH35A base (Seiko/TMI) -- automatic, 21,600bph, 41h PR, 24j; Asaoka-regulated
  • NH35A base (Seiko/TMI) -- automatic, 21,600bph, 41h PR, 24j; Asaoka-regulated and timed
  • NH35A base (Seiko/TMI) -- automatic, 21,600bph, 41h PR, 24j; Asaoka-regulated and timed; movement finished to standards above NH35 norm
  • Seiko Cal. 7R14 -- Spring Drive, manual-wind, 72h PR; tri-synchro regulator (quartz oscillator + magnetic braking, no conventional escapement); hand-finished to Credor standard; ±1 sec/day accuracy

Unclassified

Calibers we have not yet classified. Honest default rather than a guess.

  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L043.1 -- manual-wind jumping digital display, 21,600bph, 36h PR, 82j; outsize date, jumping hours and minutes; high-precision indexing mechanism
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L051.2 -- manual-wind with up/down power reserve, 21,600bph, 72h PR, 68j; outsize date, remontoir d'egalite; Lange flagship feature set
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L093.1 -- manual-wind, in-house, 21,600bph, 72h PR; used in Saxonia Thin; one of the thinnest manually-wound calibers Lange makes
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L095.3 -- manual-wind with moon phase and outsize date, 21,600bph, 72h PR, 72j; used in Grand Lange 1 Moonphase; double barrel
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L101.2 -- manual-wind flyback chronograph, 18,000bph, 60h PR, 363 parts; column wheel, vertical clutch, flyback pusher at 10; lever-set outsize date
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L121.1 -- manual-wind, in-house, 21,600bph, 72h PR, 65j; outsize date, double mainspring barrel, blued screws, German silver bridges
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L132.1 -- manual-wind triple split-seconds chronograph, 18,000bph, 55h PR, 567 parts; rattrapante + rattrapante; world premiere in 2018
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L155.1 Datomatic -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR; Odysseus sports model; first-ever Lange automatic movement
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L941.1 -- manual-wind, in-house, 21,600bph, 72h PR; thin variant with small seconds; used in 35mm Saxonia; two mainspring barrels
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L951.1 -- manual-wind flyback chronograph, 18,000bph, 36h PR, 60j; column-wheel, outsize date; flagship Datograph caliber
  • A. Lange & Sohne Cal. L951.6 -- manual-wind flyback chronograph with up/down power reserve, 18,000bph, 36h PR, 66j; outsize date; Datograph Up/Down variant
  • AP Cal. 2125 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 40h PR, 33j; 21k gold full rotor (not a micro-rotor); direct derivative of Cal. 2124, a separate AP family from the JLC-derived Cal. 2120/2121; produced 1987-1997
  • AP Cal. 3120 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 60h PR, 40j; used in Royal Oak Offshore and ROO diver; AP-decorated with perlage and Cotes de Geneve
  • AP Cal. 3120 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 60h PR, 40j; used in Royal Oak Offshore and Royal Oak 41mm; AP-decorated with perlage and Cotes de Geneve
  • AP Cal. 4302 -- in-house automatic with date, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 40j; used in Royal Oak 15500 and Code 11.59; modern AP automatic platform
  • AP Cal. 4401 -- in-house automatic flyback chronograph, 21,600bph, 70h PR, 40j; integrated column-wheel, skeletonized bridges; used in Royal Oak Code 11.59 and RO chrono
  • AP Cal. 7121 -- ultra-thin in-house automatic micro-rotor, 19,800bph, 40h PR, 36j; used in Royal Oak Jumbo 16202; 3.05mm thick; cornerstone of AP thin watchmaking
  • Ball Cal. RR1602 -- ETA base, Ball-modified, COSC-certified, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Trainmaster Cannonball; heritage railroad-inspired timekeeping
  • Baume & Mercier Cal. BM13-1975A Baumatic -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 120h (5-day) PR, 29j; silicon hairspring; used in Clifton Baumatic
  • Baume & Mercier Cal. BM13-1975A Baumatic -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 120h PR, 29j; silicon hairspring; used in Clifton Baumatic and Clifton Moonphase
  • Bell & Ross Cal. BR-CAL.321 -- automatic with date, ETA base, BR-finished, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in BR 05-92 Steel; sportswear inspired architecture
  • Blancpain Cal. 1151 -- ultra-thin in-house automatic micro-rotor, 21,600bph, 100h PR, 22j; only 2.6mm thick; used in Villeret ultra-slim
  • Blancpain Cal. 1315 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 120h (5-day) PR, 35j; three barrels, silicon anti-shock spring, mono-directional winding rotor
  • Blancpain Cal. 6654 -- in-house automatic with perpetual calendar and moon phase, 28,800bph, 168h (7-day) PR, 37j; 12 complications; used in Villeret QC
  • Blancpain Cal. 6950 -- in-house automatic with grande date, 28,800bph, 72h PR; twin-barrel, display regulator; used in Villeret Grande Date
  • Blancpain Cal. F388B -- in-house automatic flyback chronograph, 36,000bph, 40h PR; column-wheel; used in Air Command; highest-beat Blancpain chrono caliber
  • Breguet Cal. 5165R -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 60h PR, 22j; moonphase display accurate to 1 day in 122 years; wave-finished bridges
  • Breguet Cal. 533.3 -- in-house automatic chronograph, 21,600bph, 48h PR, 24j; column-wheel flyback chronograph with peripheral oscillating weight in 22k gold; used in Marine Chronograph 5527
  • Breguet Cal. 592 DR/1 -- in-house automatic with annual calendar, 21,600bph, 45h PR, 30j; peripheral rotor; regulator display; skeletonized bridges show the movement architecture on the dial side
  • Breitling Cal. 01 -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 47j; column-wheel, vertical clutch; COSC-certified; used in Navitimer, Chronomat, Premier
  • Breitling Cal. 10 -- Tudor MT5612 base, Breitling-modified, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 25j; COSC-certified; used in Superocean Heritage 57
  • Breitling Cal. B09 -- hand-wound, derived from Venus 178 archive, 21,600bph, 70h PR; used in Premier Heritage 40; tribute to vintage Venus column-wheel chronograph
  • Bvlgari Cal. BVL 138 -- ultra-thin in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR, 22j; only 2.23mm thick -- record-holder; used in Octo Finissimo Auto; 5mm total watch thickness
  • Bvlgari Cal. BVL 191 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR, 39j; used in BVLGARI BVLGARI Auto 41; Bvlgari manufacture finish on a sport-dress movement
  • Bvlgari Cal. BVL 191 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR, 39j; used in Octo Roma and BVLGARI BVLGARI; sport automatic with Bvlgari in-house finishing
  • Bvlgari Cal. BVL 318 -- ultra-thin in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 55h PR; only 3.45mm thick; used in Octo Finissimo Chrono; world record thin chrono
  • Cal. 502.3 DRPH (hand-wound, Breguet regulator dial, 80h reserve)
  • Cal. 533.6 (automatic, flyback chronograph, 40h reserve)
  • Cal. 589F (automatic flyback chronograph, 10 Hz high-frequency oscillator, 65h reserve)
  • Cal. 78CS (automatic, 38h reserve)
  • Cartier Cal. 1847 MC -- automatic, in-house, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 23j; used in Tank Must Auto, Cle de Cartier, and Santos Medium Modern
  • Cartier Cal. 1847 MC -- automatic, in-house, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 23j; workhorse Cartier automatic used across Santos and other sport-dress lines
  • Cartier Cal. 1847 MC -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 23j; workhorse Cartier automatic used across Santos and other sport-dress lines
  • Cartier Cal. 1853 MC -- automatic, in-house, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Tank Francaise; standard Cartier automatic with date module
  • Cartier Cal. 1904-CH MC -- automatic integrated chronograph, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 27j; used in Cartier Santos Chrono; column-wheel and vertical clutch
  • Cartier Cal. 1904-CH MC -- automatic integrated chronograph, in-house, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 27j; used in Pasha Chrono and Santos Chrono; column-wheel integrated design
  • Cartier Cal. 1904-PS MC -- automatic, in-house, 28,800bph, 48h PR, 23j; used in Drive de Cartier; thin profile automatic with peripheral rotor
  • Cartier Cal. 1917 MC -- manual-wind, in-house, 21,600bph, 42h PR, 19j; thin profile for dress watches
  • Cartier Cal. 9780 MC -- manual-wind, in-house skeleton, 18,000bph; exceptionally thin baguette caliber for Tank Cintree; one of the thinnest Cartier movements
  • Cartier Caliber 1904 PS MC (automatic, in-house)
  • Chopard Cal. 01.01-C -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 40j; used in Alpine Eagle 41; COSC-certified; silicon pallet forks and escape wheel; modern LUC platform
  • Chopard Cal. 01.01-L -- in-house ultra-flat automatic, 28,800bph, 65h PR; used in LUC XPS Titanium; micro-rotor; one of thinnest Chopard LUC movements at 3.3mm
  • Chopard Cal. 03.05-C -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 48j; used in Alpine Eagle XL Chrono; column-wheel flyback; silicon pallet forks and escape wheel; COSC
  • Chopard Cal. 1.96 -- in-house manual-wind flyback chronograph, 28,800bph, 65h PR; used in LUC XPF; COSC-certified; column-wheel flyback mechanism; Geneva Seal holder
  • Chopard Cal. 96.01-L -- in-house manual-wind, 28,800bph, 65h PR, 29j; quick-set date and annual calendar through the crown; thinner XPS case than standard perpetual
  • Chopard Cal. 96.01-L -- in-house manual-wind, 28,800bph, 65h PR, 29j; used in LUC XPS; one of the thinnest Chopard calibers; micro-rotor variant in L01 automatic
  • Chopard Cal. 96.22-L -- in-house automatic perpetual calendar, COSC-certified, 65h PR; twin-barrel; used in L.U.C Perpetual Twin; twin-aperture date display with leap-year indicator, no service needed until 2100
  • Citizen (Miyota) Cal. NH8391 -- Japanese automatic, 21,600bph, 40h PR, 21j; used in Citizen Tsuyosa; Miyota-manufactured standard automatic movement
  • Citizen Cal. 0950 -- in-house hi-beat automatic, 36,000bph, 50h PR; used in Series 8 880; Citizen highest-beat automatic movement
  • Citizen Cal. 9051 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR; used in Series 8 870; Citizen manufacture caliber with excellent value proposition
  • Citizen Cal. 9054 -- in-house automatic GMT, 28,800bph, 50h PR; used in Series 8 831 GMT; Citizen manufacture caliber with GMT complication
  • Citizen Cal. E111-S011 -- Eco-Drive light-powered, no battery; used in Promaster Land BN5011; solar cell charges capacitor; perpetual calendar, world time
  • Corum Cal. CO 313 -- manual-wind linear baguette automatic, 21,600bph, 48h PR; used in Golden Bridge; unique 9mm wide movement running in a straight line
  • Customised ETA 7001 + ROCS 4 module (oil-filled chamber, integrated solar cell for e-Crown functionality)
  • Czapek Cal. SXH3 -- Vaucher-derived manual-wind, 21,600bph, 168h (7-day) PR; used in Quai des Bergues 7-Day; seven-day power reserve indicator at 6
  • Czapek Cal. SXH5 -- Vaucher/FP Journe-derived automatic, 28,800bph, 72h PR; used in Antarctique; micro-rotor, open-worked architecture; Geneva manufacture
  • Damasko Cal. A26 -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 60h PR; used in DK105; ice-hardened stainless steel case and movement; German tool watch engineering
  • ETA 2804-2 -- automatic, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 21j; self-winding with display caseback; smaller automatic format for the 35mm case; enamel dial made in Glasgow
  • Frederique Constant Cal. FC-303 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; used in Runabout and Index Auto; accessible FC manufacture caliber
  • Frederique Constant Cal. FC-310 -- in-house automatic with heartbeat aperture, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 26j; partial dial aperture at 6 o'clock exposes the balance wheel; accessible FC manufacture
  • Frederique Constant Cal. FC-710 -- in-house manual-wind monolithic silicon oscillator, 115,200bph (incredible beat rate), 38h PR; used in Slimline Monolithic; no traditional hairspring
  • Frederique Constant Cal. FC-712 -- in-house automatic with moon phase, 28,800bph, 38h PR; used in Classics Moonphase; excellent accessible moonphase complication
  • Frederique Constant Cal. FC-775 -- in-house automatic perpetual calendar, 28,800bph, 38h PR; used in Highlife Perpetual Cal.; democratically priced perpetual calendar
  • Glashutte Original Cal. 36 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR; simple center-seconds movement with date; traditional German perlage and Glashutte stripes
  • Glashutte Original Cal. 36-13 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR; panorama date at 6; traditional Glashutte finishing with 3/4 plate
  • Glashutte Original Cal. 39-52 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 40h PR; retro-styled vintage caliber for Sixties collection; Glashutte fine-finishing
  • Glashutte Original Cal. 65-01 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR; panorama date at 12, bidirectional winding rotor; Glashutte-finished
  • Glashutte Original Cal. 90-02 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR; panorama date + moon phase; skeltonized rotor, Glashutte perlage and stripes
  • Glashutte Original Cal. 91-02 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR; open-worked dial-side movement; panorama date from dial side; intricate skeletonized architecture
  • GP Cal. 03300 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 54h PR; used in Cat's Eye 41; feminine tonneau-shaped movement to complement the oval case architecture
  • GP Cal. 03300-0054 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 54h PR, 30j; same manufacture caliber across Laureato family; Girard-Perregaux fully in-house execution
  • GP Cal. 03300-0054 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 54h PR, 30j; used in Laureato 38 and 1966 42 Auto; Girard-Perregaux manufacture caliber
  • GP Cal. 03300-0100 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 54h PR; used in Vintage 1945 Large; tonneau-shaped movement to match rectangular case architecture
  • GP Cal. 03300-0113 -- in-house automatic column-wheel chronograph, 28,800bph, 54h PR; used in Laureato Chrono 38; COSC-certified, GP integrated chrono architecture
  • GP Cal. 03300-0115 -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 54h PR; used in Laureato Chrono 42; integrated column-wheel, GP in-house finishing
  • GP Cal. GP03300-0115 -- in-house automatic annual calendar, 28,800bph, 54h PR; three-window annual calendar corrects automatically at month-end except Feb/Mar; used in 1966 series
  • GP Cal. GP033R0 -- in-house automatic annual calendar, 28,800bph, 46h PR; used in 1966 Annual Calendar; requires setting just once a year at end of February
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9R31 -- Spring Drive manual-wind, 19,800bph (glide spring), 84h PR, 32j; tri-synchro regulator; +/-1 sec/day accuracy
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9R65 -- Spring Drive automatic, 19,800bph (glide spring), 72h PR, 37j; tri-synchro regulator, +-1 sec/day accuracy
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9R66 -- Spring Drive automatic GMT, 19,800bph (glide spring), 72h PR, 37j; tri-synchro regulator, second time zone; +/-1 sec/day accuracy
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9S64 -- in-house manual-wind, 28,800bph, 72h PR, 37j; extensively hand-finished with Zaratsu polishing; SBGW series workhorse
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9S66 -- in-house hi-beat automatic, 36,000bph, 55h PR, 37j; double impulse escapement, extra precision; used in hi-beat GMT models
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9S86 -- in-house hi-beat automatic with GMT, 36,000bph, 55h PR, 37j; double impulse escapement, independently adjustable GMT hand; used in SBGJ201
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9S86 -- in-house hi-beat automatic with GMT, 36,000bph, 55h PR, 37j; independently adjustable GMT hand; dual-impulse escapement
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9SA5 -- in-house hi-beat automatic, 36,000bph, 80h PR, 39j; dual impulse escapement, free-sprung balance; Grand Seiko flagship caliber
  • Grand Seiko Cal. 9SA5 -- in-house hi-beat automatic, 36,000bph, 80h PR, 39j; dual impulse escapement, free-sprung Dual Impulse Escapement; Grand Seiko flagship caliber
  • Grossmann Cal. 100.0 -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 42h PR; three-quarter plate, hand-beveled and polished; exceptional German Glashutte finishing
  • H. Moser Cal. HMC 200 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 72h PR, 21j; used across Endeavour and Streamliner centre-seconds; famed fumee dial pairings
  • H. Moser Cal. HMC 327 -- in-house automatic with small seconds at 6, 28,800bph, 72h PR; used in Endeavour Small Seconds; signature Moser slim profile
  • H. Moser Cal. HMC 800 -- in-house automatic perpetual calendar, 28,800bph, 72h PR; used in Endeavour Perpetual; minimal display perpetual calendar
  • H. Moser Cal. HMC 902 -- in-house automatic flyback chronograph, 28,800bph, 54h PR; used in Streamliner Flyback; integrated design with no external pushers
  • Habring2 Cal. A11B -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 52h PR; used in Felix; simple and elegant Viennese watchmaking at independent micro-brand scale
  • Habring2 Cal. A11MS -- in-house single-button monopusher chronograph, 21,600bph, 52h PR; used in Erwin; manually wound with traditional column-wheel; Vienna-made
  • Harry Winston Cal. HW3000 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 28j; used in Midnight Date; executed at the Geneva manufacture; exclusive to Harry Winston
  • Hermes Cal. H1837 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR; used in Cape Cod; Hermes in-house caliber developed with Vaucher; named for Hermes founding year
  • Hermes Cal. H1912 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR, 25j; used in Arceau 40; first Hermes in-house movement; double barrel with open-dial aesthetics
  • Hermes Cal. H1950 -- in-house ultra-thin automatic, 21,600bph, 50h PR; used in Slim d'Hermes PM; Hermes thin movement for the iconic slim rectangular case
  • Hublot Cal. HUB1201 -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 240h (10-day) PR; used in Big Bang Meca-10; six barrels in series; power-reserve indicator at 6
  • Hublot Cal. HUB1213 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Big Bang Integral 40; compact movement designed for integrated bracelet architecture
  • Hublot Cal. HUB1242 UNICO -- in-house automatic flyback chronograph, 28,800bph, 72h PR, 330 parts; column-wheel, integrated case; used in Big Bang UNICO 44
  • Hublot Cal. HUB1242 UNICO -- in-house automatic flyback chronograph, 28,800bph, 72h PR, 330 parts; column-wheel, integrated case; used in Big Bang Unico ceramic series
  • Hublot Cal. HUB4700 UNICO -- in-house automatic flyback chronograph, 28,800bph, 72h PR; used in Spirit of Big Bang 45; column-wheel, bi-directional rotor
  • IWC Cal. 51111 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 168h (7-day) PR, 42j; used in Big Pilot 46; twin barrels, Pellaton winding; IWC flagship hand-finished movement
  • IWC Cal. 52010 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 168h (7-day) PR, 42j; twin mainspring barrels, pellaton winding system; used in Portugieser 7-Day
  • IWC Cal. 52610 -- in-house automatic with perpetual calendar, 21,600bph, 60h PR, 37j; perpetual calendar with four-digit year display; jumping date; used in Portugieser IW5033
  • IWC Cal. 59210 -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 192h (8-day) PR, 42j; used in Portugieser Hand-Wound 8-Day; twin mainspring barrels; iconic 8-day reserve
  • IWC Cal. 80110 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 32j; used in Aquatimer Auto 2000; Pellaton winding, soft-iron inner cage anti-magnetic
  • IWC Cal. 82100 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 30j; Pellaton winding system, soft iron anti-magnetic cage; IWC Big Pilot workhorse caliber
  • IWC Cal. 82100 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 30j; Pellaton winding system, soft-iron anti-magnetic cage; same caliber family as Big Pilot 43
  • IWC Cal. 82200 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 30j; Pellaton winding, soft iron anti-magnetic cage; used in Portugieser Auto 40; IWC flagship movement
  • IWC Cal. 89361 -- in-house automatic chronograph with regatta timer, 28,800bph, 68h PR, 45j; column-wheel, large date; Portugieser Yacht Club Chrono caliber
  • JLC Cal. 177 -- manual-wind grande sonnerie with 1,366 parts; grande and petite sonnerie, Westminster carillon, minute repeater, perpetual calendar, tourbillon; one of the most complicated wristwatches in history
  • JLC Cal. 751H -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 65h PR, 47j; column-wheel, integrated construction; used in Polaris Chronograph
  • JLC Cal. 759 -- in-house automatic flyback chronograph with calendar, 28,800bph, 65h PR, 65j; column-wheel, silicon escapement lever; used in Master Control Chrono
  • JLC Cal. 822 -- manual-wind, in-house, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 19j; used in thin manual-wind Reverso models; manually finished movement
  • JLC Cal. 846 -- manual-wind, in-house, 28,800bph, 45h PR, 17j; used in Reverso One Re-edition; rectangular movement matched to Reverso case geometry
  • JLC Cal. 854A/2 -- manual-wind with second time zone, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; reversible case Reverso caliber with dual-side display
  • JLC Cal. 868/1 -- automatic perpetual calendar, 28,800bph, 43h PR, 40j; perpetual day/date/month/year display with moon phase; no manual correction needed until 2100
  • JLC Cal. 896/1 -- manual-wind ultra-thin, 28,800bph, 43h PR, 20j; used in Master Ultra Thin 38; only 2.94mm thick; JLC-hallmarked finishing
  • JLC Cal. 899AC -- in-house automatic with date, 28,800bph, 43h PR, 37j; anti-shock device, IWC 37524 basis; Geneva Seal finishing standard
  • JLC Cal. 925/1 -- automatic with moon phase, 28,800bph, 43h PR, 38j; used in Master Ultra Thin Moon 39; thin profile with three-dimensional moon display
  • JLC Cal. 956 -- in-house automatic with alarm, 28,800bph, 45h PR, 39j; used in Polaris Memovox; gong-and-hammer alarm, winding via the crown
  • JLC Cal. 986 -- manual-wind tourbillon with Gyrolab balance wheel, 21,600bph, 50h PR; titanium Gyrolab balance replaces traditional circular balance to reduce aerodynamic drag by 25 percent; flying tourbillon
  • JLC/AP Cal. 2121 -- ultra-thin automatic, 19,800bph, 40h PR, 36j; only 3.05mm thick; 21k gold peripheral full rotor on ruby rollers (not a micro-rotor); based on the JLC Cal. 920 (1967), shared with Vacheron and Patek
  • Lang & Heyne Cal. I -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 50h PR; used in Friedrich; traditional German three-quarter plate, hand-finished in Dresden; extremely small production
  • Laurent Ferrier Cal. LF230.01 -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 72h PR; used in Galet Square Bronze; double barrel, Geneva finishing; independent manufacture
  • Laurent Ferrier Cal. LF270.01 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 80h PR; used in Classic Origin and Sport Auto; micro-rotor; Geneva-finished independently
  • Lemania Cal. 321 -- manual-wind column-wheel chronograph, 18,000bph, 48h PR; lateral clutch, triple-hammer; same caliber used on Moonwatch NASA mission
  • Longines Cal. L592.2 -- ETA automatic, 25,200bph, 54h PR; used in Record 38.5; COSC-certified chronometer variant with extended power reserve
  • Longines Cal. L615 -- ETA automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Heritage Diver re-edition; simple diving caliber with manual wind and hack
  • Longines Cal. L688.2 -- ETA automatic, column-wheel chronograph, 28,800bph, 50h PR; used in Spirit Pilot Chronograph; column-wheel mechanism with aviator styling
  • Longines Cal. L807.24 -- ETA automatic base, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Legend Diver re-edition; simple and robust diving watch caliber
  • Longines Cal. L899.5 -- ETA automatic with moon phase, 25,200bph, 64h PR, 25j; used in Master Moonphase; silicon hairspring, triple-calendar complications
  • Maurice Lacroix Cal. ML115 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 38h PR, 25j; used in AIKON 42; Maurice Lacroix first fully in-house automatic; sporty architecture
  • Maurice Lacroix Cal. ML156 -- in-house automatic with day-date, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Pontos Day-Date 41; Maurice Lacroix in-house day-date caliber
  • Maurice Lacroix Cal. ML187 -- in-house automatic with mystery seconds, 21,600bph, 40h PR; used in Masterpiece Seconde Mystere; seconds hand appears to float
  • Montblanc Cal. MB 24.15 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 26j; used in 1858 Auto; clean simple movement in tool watch aesthetic
  • Montblanc Cal. MB 24.27 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 25j; used in Heritage Chronometrie Auto; Montblanc manufacture caliber with clean execution
  • Montblanc Cal. MB 29.21 -- in-house automatic with moon phase and date, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Star Legacy Moonphase; Montblanc Swiss manufacture caliber
  • Montblanc Cal. MB 29.25 -- in-house automatic dual time zone, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in 1858 Geosphere Dual Time; patented hemispherical world time display
  • Montblanc Cal. MB M16.21 -- in-house automatic monopusher chronograph, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 25j; used in 1858 Monopusher; single-pusher column-wheel system
  • Nomos Cal. Alpha -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 43h PR, 17j; lever escapement, glucydur ring balance; NOMOS-made in Glashutte, Germany
  • Nomos Cal. DUW 1001 -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 84h PR; twin mainspring barrels; DUW signifies Deutsche Uhrenwerke in-house manufacture
  • Nomos Cal. DUW 4401 -- in-house automatic with date, 28,800bph, 42h PR; Swing System escapement (proprietary), bidirectional winding rotor
  • Nomos Cal. DUW 5101 -- in-house neomatik automatic, 21,600bph, 42h PR; flat disc rotor; used in Ahoi Atlantik; Swing System escapement
  • Nomos Cal. DUW 5201 -- in-house neomatik automatic GMT, 21,600bph, 42h PR; Swing System, flat disc rotor; used in Zurich Weltzeit worldtimer
  • Nomos Cal. DUW 6101 -- in-house neomatik automatic, 21,600bph, 42h PR; flat disc rotor; proprietary Swing System escapement; only 3.2mm thick movement
  • Orient Cal. F6724 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 40h PR, 21j; used in Bambino V5 40; Orient manufacture caliber with excellent value; hackable, manual-wind
  • Orient Cal. F6922 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 40h PR, 21j; used in Ray III Diver; Orient manufacture dive caliber; hackable, manual-wind
  • Orient Cal. F6B22 -- in-house automatic with sun-moon phase and day, 21,600bph, 40h PR, 21j; used in Classic Sun Moon; triple-calendar Orient manufacture caliber
  • Oris Cal. 400 -- fully in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 120h (5-day) PR, 26j; silicon escapement, triple barrel; Oris first true manufacture caliber
  • Oris Cal. 690 -- in-house automatic worldtimer, 28,800bph, 42h PR; 24 cities displayed; used in Big Crown Worldtimer; Oris worldtimer complication
  • Oris Cal. 774 -- in-house automatic flyback chronograph, 28,800bph, 44h PR; column-wheel; used in ProDiver Chronograph; flyback function for diving timing
  • Panerai Cal. P.3001 -- in-house manual-wind with small seconds and power reserve, 21,600bph, 72h PR, 21j; used in Radiomir 1940 3-Day; Panerai manufacture caliber
  • Panerai Cal. P.4000 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 72h PR; used in Radiomir Quaranta P01386; Panerai modern slim automatic for Radiomir family
  • Panerai Cal. P.6000 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR, 21j; used in Luminor Base P01085; Panerai first in-house automatic; large rotor visible through caseback
  • Panerai Cal. P.900 -- in-house manual-wind, 21,600bph, 72h PR; used in Luminor Due P01312; ultra-thin at 5.3mm; Panerai thinnest in-house caliber
  • Panerai Cal. P.9000 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 72h PR, 28j; used in Submersible P00683; twin barrels, seconds-reset; Panerai workhorse caliber
  • Panerai Cal. P.9010 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 72h PR, 28j; used in Luminor Marina P01523; large movement occupies most of the 44mm case
  • Patek Cal. 215 PS -- manual-wind, in-house, 28,800bph, 44h PR, 18j; used in Calatrava 5196; thin, refined hand-wound movement with applied jewels
  • Patek Cal. 240 PS IRM C LU -- ultra-thin automatic with perpetual calendar, moon phase, and power reserve, 21,600bph, 38-48h PR, 29j; off-center mini-rotor; used in 5712 Nautilus
  • Patek Cal. 240 Q -- ultra-thin automatic micro-rotor with perpetual calendar, 19,800bph, 48h PR, 27j; only 3.88mm total; Gyromax balance; used in PC 5327
  • Patek Cal. 240 Q -- ultra-thin automatic perpetual calendar, 21,600bph, 48h PR, 315 parts; perpetual calendar module on 3mm-thick base movement; moon phase accurate to 1 day in 122 years
  • Patek Cal. 26-330 S C -- automatic with date, 28,800bph, 35-45h PR, 29j; Gyromax balance, Spiromax hairspring
  • Patek Cal. 26-330 S C -- automatic with date, 28,800bph, 35-45h PR, 29j; Gyromax balance, Spiromax hairspring; used in 5711 Nautilus
  • Patek Cal. 26-330 S C J SE -- automatic with date, 28,800bph, 45h PR, 29j; Gyromax balance; used in Calatrava 5212A Officer case with Breguet numerals
  • Patek Cal. 28-255 C -- ultra-thin automatic with date, 19,800bph, 40h PR, 29j; 3.71mm thick; integrated winding; used in 3700 Nautilus
  • Patek Cal. 30-255 PS -- manual-wind, in-house, 28,800bph, 65h PR, 18j; used in Calatrava 6119; fine Calatrava finishing, Gyromax balance
  • Patek Cal. 324 S C -- automatic with date, 28,800bph, 45h PR, 29j; Gyromax balance, Spiromax hairspring; used across Calatrava and Aquanaut lines
  • Patek Cal. 324 S C FUS -- automatic with date and second time zone, 28,800bph, 45h PR, 29j; Gyromax balance; used in Calatrava Pilot 5524G
  • Patek Cal. 324 S Q -- automatic with annual calendar, 28,800bph, 45h PR, 33j; Gyromax balance; used in Perpetual Calendar 5320G; full perpetual variant
  • Patek Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H/206 -- automatic annual calendar with moon phase, 28,800bph, 45h PR, 55j; Gyromax balance; used in Annual Calendar 5396
  • Patek Cal. CH 28-520 C FUS -- automatic flyback chronograph with second time zone, 28,800bph, 55h PR, 40j; column-wheel, vertical clutch; used in Nautilus 5990
  • Patek Cal. CH 29-535 PS -- in-house manual-wind chronograph, 28,800bph, 65h PR, 33j; column wheel, horizontal clutch, flyback function; same movement family as the 5370 split-seconds
  • Patek Philippe Cal. 324 S C -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 45h PR, 29j; Gyromax balance, Spiromax hairspring
  • Patek Philippe Cal. 324 S QA LU 24H -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 45h PR; annual calendar (requires single correction per year, at March 1) + moonphase + 24h indicator; integrated in Nautilus sports case
  • Philippe Dufour in-house, manual-wind -- three-hand, 18,000bph, 60h PR; entirely hand-made and hand-finished by Dufour alone; anglage and polishing held as the industry's highest reference standard; fewer than 200 total produced since 2000
  • Philippe Dufour in-house, manual-wind -- twin-escapement (two complete lever escapements running simultaneously, connected by differential); 18,000bph; entirely hand-made by Dufour; only 8 known examples
  • Piaget Cal. 1110P -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR, 26j; integrated bracelet movement architecture; 4.6mm movement height enabling slim integrated sport case
  • Piaget Cal. 1160P -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 50h PR; used in Polo S Chrono 42; peripheral winding system; Piaget thin sport architecture
  • Piaget Cal. 1160P -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR, 27j; used in Polo S Auto; robust integrated Polo caliber with peripheral rotor winding system
  • Piaget Cal. 1200P -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 44h PR, 27j; only 2.35mm thick -- world record for thinnest self-winding caliber for years; ultra-flat Altiplano benchmark
  • Piaget Cal. 1200P -- in-house ultra-thin automatic, 28,800bph, 44h PR; only 2.35mm thick; used in Altiplano Ultimate; total case thickness 4mm -- world record
  • Piaget Cal. 1200S (in-house manual-wind skeletonized, 44h reserve)
  • Piaget Cal. 1203P -- in-house automatic with date, 28,800bph, 44h PR, 29j; used in Altiplano Date Auto; ultra-thin case-integrated architecture
  • Piaget Cal. 430P -- in-house manual-wind, 18,000bph, 43h PR, 18j; used in Altiplano 60th; only 3.65mm thick; launched to celebrate 60 years of ultra-thin expertise in 2017
  • Piaget Cal. 500P (hand-wound, in-house, 43h reserve)
  • Piaget Cal. 910P (hand-wound, case-integrated, 2mm total watch thickness, world record)
  • Roger Dubuis Cal. RD821 -- in-house automatic skeleton, 28,800bph, 60h PR; petal-cut openwork through the full movement; Geneva Seal certified
  • Seiko Cal. 4R35 -- in-house automatic with date, 21,600bph, 41h PR, 24j; hackable, manually windable; used in Presage cocktail and style series
  • Seiko Cal. 4R36 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 41h PR, 24j; hackable, manually windable; used in Seiko 5 Sports and entry Prospex models
  • Seiko Cal. 6898A -- automatic, ultra-thin (oscillating weight only 0.99mm thick); 28,800bph, 50h PR; among the thinnest rotors ever made for an automatic movement
  • Seiko Cal. 6R15 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 50h PR, 23j; Diashock shock protection, Diaflex mainspring; hackable and hand-winding
  • Seiko Cal. 6R15 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 50h PR, 24j; used in SARB033 and similar dress Seikos; manual-wind and hand-hacking
  • Seiko Cal. 6R35 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 70h PR, 24j; hand-wind and hacking; used across modern Prospex SPB line
  • Seiko Cal. 6R35 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 24j; hackable, manual-wind; upgraded from 6R15; used widely in Presage and Prospex lines
  • Seiko Cal. 6R35 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 24j; hackable, manual-wind; used in King Seiko re-edition and Prospex King Turtle
  • Seiko Cal. 6R55 -- in-house automatic, 21,600bph, 70h PR, 30j; bidirectional winding, hand-wind and hacking; GMT complication
  • Seiko Cal. 7R08 -- Spring Drive with flying tourbillon, manual-wind; tri-synchro regulator + rotating escapement carriage; platinum case; one of the rarest Seiko movements ever produced
  • Seiko Cal. 9R65 -- Spring Drive automatic, 28,800bph glide spring, 72h PR, 30j; patented tri-synchro regulator; Japan-only movement standard
  • TAG Heuer Cal. Heuer 02 -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 80h PR, 33j; column-wheel, vertical clutch; TAG first fully in-house chronograph caliber
  • Trilobe in-house disc-display movement -- manual-wind; simplified three-disc display (hours, minutes, running seconds); 40h PR
  • Trilobe in-house disc-display movement -- manual-wind; time shown via three rotating discs (hours, minutes, seconds) rather than hands; ROCS (Revolving Orbital Complication System) architecture; no conventional dial
  • Trilobe X-Centric calibre -- automatic (self-winding) with micro-rotor, manufactured for Trilobe by Le Cercle des Horlogers; three eccentric rotating rings for hours/minutes/seconds; 48h PR, 28,800bph; blued dial variant with contrasting numerals
  • Tudor MT5400 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 26j; METAS-certified, free-sprung balance, silicon hairspring
  • Tudor MT5402 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 26j; METAS-certified, bidirectional winding, free-sprung hairspring
  • Tudor MT5601 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 26j; METAS-certified, free-sprung balance; used in Black Bay Bronze 36mm
  • Tudor MT5602 -- in-house automatic GMT, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 26j; METAS-certified, bidirectional winding; used in Black Bay GMT and Pelagos FXD
  • Tudor MT5652 -- in-house automatic GMT, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 26j; METAS-certified, bidirectional winding; used in Black Bay GMT
  • Tudor MT5813 -- Breitling B01 base, Tudor-modified, 28,800bph, 70h PR, 25j; column-wheel, vertical clutch; used in Black Bay Chrono
  • Tutima Cal. 521 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in M2 Pioneer; Tutima-developed caliber for German military pilot watches; robust construction
  • Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-118 -- in-house automatic chronometer, 28,800bph, 60h PR; silicon components, anti-magnetic; used in Marine Chronometer 40
  • Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-150 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 31j; silicon escape wheel and lever; used in Marine Torpilleur; in-house UN movement
  • Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-230 -- in-house automatic with silicon carousel, 28,800bph, 60h PR; used in Freak Vision; three-dimensional cage instead of traditional balance
  • Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-250 -- in-house automatic carousel with silicon escapement, 28,800bph, 60h PR; used in Freak Vision latest; silicon oscillator replaces hairspring+balance
  • Ulysse Nardin Cal. UN-76 -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 48h PR; silicon components; used in Marine Chronograph 43; column-wheel; rotor with 18k gold mass
  • Universal Geneve Cal. UG 2834-2 -- ETA automatic with silicon hairspring, 28,800bph, 42h PR; used in Polerouter re-edition; UG historic tribute with upgraded hairspring
  • Universal Geneve Cal. UG 66 -- manual-wind, 18,000bph, 44h PR, 17j; thin dress caliber used in the classic Genève line; no complications, single-barrel manual movement
  • Urban Jurgensen Cal. 11 -- manual-wind, 21,600bph, 60h PR; movement hand-finished to a standard approaching Dufour: sharp anglage, straight-grained bridges, hand-chamfered cock; platinum or gold case
  • Urban Jurgensen Cal. 7 -- manual-wind, 21,600bph, 55h PR; enamel or guilloché dial over hand-finished movement; Roman numerals; classic pocket-watch proportions in a wristwatch
  • Urban Jurgensen Cal. 9 -- manual-wind with tourbillon, 21,600bph; flying tourbillon at 6 o'clock; movement hand-finished to the same standard as Cal. 11; one of the rarest independent tourbillons produced today
  • Vacheron Cal. 1120 QL -- ultra-thin automatic micro-rotor with perpetual calendar and leap-year, 19,800bph, 40h PR; used in Patrimony Perpetual Calendar; only 4.5mm
  • Vacheron Cal. 1120 QP -- ultra-thin automatic micro-rotor with perpetual calendar, 19,800bph, 40h PR, 36j; 4.5mm total; Hallmark of Geneva
  • Vacheron Cal. 1137 -- automatic column-wheel chronograph, 21,600bph, 40h PR, 37j, 183 parts; soft-iron antimagnetic shield; used in the second-generation Overseas Chronograph (2004-2016); Hallmark of Geneva certified
  • Vacheron Cal. 1311 -- automatic, COSC-certified, 28,800bph, 46h PR, 27j; hacking seconds, quickset date; used in the first-generation Overseas (1996-2004)
  • Vacheron Cal. 1326 -- ValFleurier-made automatic (Cartier 1904-MC architecture, shared with Piaget 1110P), Vacheron-finished, 28,800bph, 48h PR, 25j; used in Fiftysix Self-Winding; does not carry the Hallmark of Geneva
  • Vacheron Cal. 1400 -- hand-wound, 28,800bph (4Hz), 38h PR, 20j, 98 parts; 20.65mm x 2.6mm; time-only; Hallmark of Geneva certified
  • Vacheron Cal. 1400 AS -- manual-wind, in-house, 28,800bph, 40h PR, 20j, 98 components; used in Historiques Aronde 1954; Hallmark of Geneva-certified
  • Vacheron Cal. 2450 Q6 -- in-house self-winding, 28,800bph, 40h PR, 27j; movement 31mm diameter; hours, minutes, central seconds, date; Hallmark of Geneva certified
  • Vacheron Cal. 2450 Q6 -- self-winding with central seconds and date, 28,800bph (4Hz), 40h PR, 27j, 196 parts; 26.2mm x 3.6mm; solid-gold openworked rotor; Hallmark of Geneva
  • Vacheron Cal. 2460 QCL/1 -- automatic complete (triple) calendar with precision moonphase, 28,800bph, 40h PR, 308 parts; Traditionnelle flagship complication; Hallmark of Geneva
  • Vacheron Cal. 2460 QCL/1 -- automatic with complete (triple) calendar, precision moonphase, 40h PR, 27j; day/date/month display; Hallmark of Geneva finishing
  • Vacheron Cal. 2460 WT -- automatic worldtimer, 28,800bph, 40h PR, 27j; 37 cities plus day/night indicator; used in Overseas World Time; Hallmark of Geneva
  • Vacheron Cal. 2795 -- manual-wind tourbillon, 18,000bph, 45h PR, 230+ parts; used in Malte Tourbillon; Hallmark of Geneva, hand-beveled bridges
  • Vacheron Cal. 4400 AS -- manual-wind, in-house, 28,800bph, 65h PR, 21j, 127 parts; used in Traditionnelle Manual-Winding; Hallmark of Geneva certified
  • Vacheron Cal. 4400 AS -- manual-wind, in-house, 28,800bph, 65h PR, 21j; used in Traditionnelle Manual; Hallmark of Geneva-certified, perlage and Cotes de Geneve
  • Vacheron Cal. 5100 -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 37j; Overseas movement; Hallmark of Geneva certified, anti-shock system
  • Vacheron Cal. 5110 DT -- in-house automatic dual-time, 28,800bph, 60h PR, 37j; used in Overseas Dual Time; Hallmark of Geneva certified
  • Vacheron Cal. 5200 -- in-house automatic chronograph, 28,800bph, 52h PR, 39j; column-wheel, vertical clutch; used in Overseas Chronograph; Hallmark of Geneva
  • Valjoux Cal. 72 -- manual-wind column-wheel chronograph, 18,000bph, 40h PR, 17j; lateral clutch; same family as cal. 23 and 234; classic 1940s ebauche
  • Valjoux Cal. 727 -- manual-wind column-wheel chronograph, 18,000bph, 45h PR, 17j; lateral clutch; used in Rolex Daytona 6263 and 6265
  • VC Cal. 2460 QIL -- in-house automatic, 28,800bph, 40h PR, 27j; Quai de l'Ile date self-winding; modular construction allows customization of dial and functions; certified by the Hallmark of Geneva
  • Vulcain Cal. 120 -- manual-wind alarm, 18,000bph, 42h PR (time) + 20h PR (alarm); alarm powered by independent second mainspring; vibrating hammer strikes caseback; original architecture from 1947; worn by Truman, Eisenhower, Nixon, Johnson
  • Vulcain Cal. 120 -- manual-wind alarm, 18,000bph; same dual-mainspring Cricket architecture in a modern 42mm titanium case; aviation-spec rotating outer ring for elapsed-time tracking
  • Vulcain Cal. 120 skeleton -- manual-wind alarm, 18,000bph; dual-mainspring Cricket architecture displayed via skeletonized mainplates and bridges; both time and alarm barrels visible; yellow gold case

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