No-date Submariner at current production prices offers cleaner aesthetics and strong long-term hold versus the date variant.
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The 124060 is the current production no-date Submariner: 41mm steel case, black dial, black ceramic bezel, no date window. It is the purist's choice in the modern Sub lineup, keeping the clean dial that the no-date camp has preferred since the 114060 arrived in 2012.
The 124060 debuted at Watches and Wonders 2020, replacing the 114060 with a slightly larger 41mm case, updated caliber 3230, and a revised bracelet with the Oysterlock clasp and Glidelock extension. The caliber 3230 introduced a new escapement geometry, the Chronergy, which Rolex claims offers roughly 15 percent better energy efficiency and a 70-hour power reserve. The case grew by 1mm over the 114060, with fuller lugs and a wider bezel that reads noticeably different in person; buyers who prefer the older proportions should handle both before committing.
No significant dial variants have appeared in production to date, though early and later production examples carry minor finishing differences.
Check the bracelet: the 124060 ships on the Oyster bracelet with the Oysterlock clasp and the hollow-center Glidelock extension, and a mismatched or earlier-style clasp suggests the bracelet was swapped. The ceramic bezel is scratch-resistant but can be chipped by impact; inspect the insert edge closely under good light. Because the reference is still in production, unpolished cases in original condition are much easier to find than on older references, so prefer examples with sharp lug chamfers and no evidence of professional polishing.
Check that the papers match the case serial and that the warranty card date is consistent with the stated purchase history.
The 124060 trades at or near retail in current market conditions, with authorized dealer allocation still constrained. Full-set examples with unworn or lightly worn bracelets and original stickers intact command the strongest premiums. There are no rare dial variants to chase at this point, so condition and completeness are the primary price drivers.
The market softened from its 2021-2022 peak; buyers who waited have meaningfully better options now than they did two years ago.
The caliber 3230 is the newest movement in the current Submariner line and has not yet accumulated the long-term service history of the 3130 or 3135. Rolex recommends service approximately every 10 years; most independent watchmakers are comfortable with the movement. On a watch this new, a prior service history is not a meaningful factor, but documented provenance and original papers carry real weight.
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The 124060 is the current 41mm no-date Submariner. High-quality super clone replicas arrived shortly after launch. Dial printing quality, Cal. 3230 function, and bracelet finishing are the primary verification points.
| Area | What to check | What is correct | Red flag |
|---|---|---|---|
| dial | Chromalight lume plots and coronet printing | Chromalight lume glows blue (not green); Rolex coronet at 12 is crisp with visible three-dimensional quality against the matte dial | Green-glowing lume indicating a wrong lume generation; flat or fuzzy coronet printing under magnification |
| case | Brushed vs. polished lug transitions | Lug tops are brushed; lug sides are polished; the transition line between surfaces is straight and crisp | Uniformly polished lugs; transition line that is wavy or bleeds from polished into brushed areas |
| crystal |
The 124060 is the current-generation no-date Submariner with the larger 41mm case. High-quality replicas exist but are identifiable through dial printing quality, movement function, and bracelet finishing.
| Sapphire crystal AR coating and cyclops absence |
| Flat sapphire crystal without cyclops magnifier (no date on this reference); Rolex AR coating shows as a light blue-green tint at certain angles |
| Cyclops magnifier present (always wrong for the no-date 124060); mineral crystal that scratches with a key |
| movement | Cal. 3230 70-hour power reserve and no quickset date | No date function; 70-hour power reserve from full wind; Perpetual rotor is bidirectional and spins with a high-quality smooth feel | Any date complication in the stated no-date 124060; grinding or clicking rotor indicating worn bearings |
| crown | Triplock crown dots and screw-down feel | Three dots on crown face; crown screws down firmly with smooth thread engagement; three distinct crown positions | Fewer than three dots; crown that cross-threads or feels loose when extended |
| bracelet | Oyster bracelet end-link fit and glide-lock clasp | End links flush against the case horn with no lateral play; glide-lock clasp with 2mm micro-adjustment clicks; "Oystersteel" text on inner clasp face | End links with visible gap against the case; glide-lock that does not engage discrete positions; missing "Oystersteel" inner clasp text |
