Editorial
The Lady-Datejust 28 ref. 279174 is the current production 28mm Datejust with a factory diamond bezel, available in full steel or two-tone Rolesor configurations. It runs the caliber 2236, Rolex's first in-house movement purpose-built for smaller-cased watches, with a silicon hairspring that makes it more resistant to magnetic fields and eliminates the need for a Faraday cage. For collectors who want a modern, properly-sized ladies Datejust with genuine mechanical substance rather than a quartz alternative, this reference is the sensible choice.
The 279174 launched in 2016 as part of the comprehensive Datejust refresh that unified the family under a new case architecture and replaced the older 178274 in the 28mm diamond-bezel slot. The caliber 2236 was introduced specifically for this generation, supplanting the 2235, and brought a silicon Syloxi hairspring for improved antimagnetic performance and long-term rate stability. Dial options have included champagne, silver, pink, and mother-of-pearl, with several iterations across the production run; the reference remains in current production as of 2026.
Rolesor variants pair a yellow or Everose gold bezel and crown with a steel case and Jubilee or Oyster bracelet.
Check the diamond bezel closely: factory-set stones should be consistent in appearance and matched; aftermarket diamond bezels are common on the secondary market and reduce value meaningfully, so prefer examples with original Rolex documentation and unbroken factory seal stickers where present. Verify the dial text matches the era, particularly the "Datejust" signature and "Swiss Made" footer, as replacement dials circulate. The Jubilee bracelet on these wears at the center links over time; check for stretch and play in the clasp, and prefer examples where the bracelet has not been sized aggressively.
A full set with card, box, and hangtags commands a significantly higher resale floor than watch-only examples of this reference.
