The De Bethune DB28 | family history
The DB28 is the reference most people picture when they think of De Bethune: a round case with articulated lugs that float on the wrist, a heat-blued titanium bezel and indices, and dial work that belongs in a museum. The DB28XP pushed the family to 7.2mm, making it one of the thinnest in-house dress watches at any price.
De Bethune’s most-recognized line: the DB28 introduced the brand’s articulated-lug case construction and the heat-blued titanium signature on the bezel and indices. The DB28XP (2020) carries the slimmest De Bethune case at 7.2mm with the in-house DB2115v4 hand-wound caliber.
2010 · DB28 launch: articulated lugs and titanium blue
De Bethune introduced the DB28 in 2010 as the brand's primary round-case statement. The articulated lug construction, a patented system of floating links that adapt the case to the wrist curvature, became the De Bethune visual signature. Heat-blued titanium on the bezel and indices, a silicon-and-titanium balance wheel, and an in-house movement with a 6-day power reserve made it a reference point for independent horology at the time.
No references from this era in the catalog yet.
2014-present · DB28XP: 7.2mm ultra-thin
The DB28XP reduced the case height to 7.2mm by reconfiguring the DB2115v4 hand-wound caliber. At that height, with the articulated lug construction and the characteristic titanium-blue finishing, it sits in the company of the Patek Philippe Calatrava Ultra-Thin and the Piaget Altiplano in the ultra-thin dress watch conversation, but with a more contemporary and technically distinctive aesthetic.
2019 · DB28 Kind of Blue
The DB28 Kind of Blue extended the titanium-blue theme to the dial itself, using De Bethune's heat-treatment technique on the main plate visible through the display back. A 40mm case, 5-day power reserve, and the brand's silicon escapement. The Kind of Blue edition demonstrated that the DB28 case could carry dial color treatments without losing the family's disciplined identity.
How to read this family
Two honest questions for any DB28 buyer:
- DB28 or DB28XP? The standard DB28 wears with more presence; the XP is a slim-dress specialist. If you wear tailored clothing regularly and want the thinnest possible independent watch, the XP is the right choice. If you want De Bethune's full articulated-lug aesthetic with a more readable dial, the standard DB28 is more balanced.
- De Bethune vs. comparable independents? De Bethune competes with F.P. Journe and Laurent Ferrier at this price point. The movements are genuinely different philosophies; De Bethune favors silicon and titanium for functional reasons, not just aesthetics. Buy the one whose technical choices match what you find compelling.
Related families: DB25 · Calatrava
References in this family
Which ref to buy
De Bethune is among the most technically rigorous independent watchmakers working today. David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet founded the atelier in 2002 and have built a body of work that combines obsessive movement finishing with materials research -- titanium, silicon, and alloyed metals developed in-house. The DB28 is their core reference.
- 1Open
DB28 Kind of Blue -- the most visually celebrated DB28 and the reference that introduced De Bethune to the widest audience.
- The case for it:
- Cal. DB2115 V9, DB28 case in titanium with De Bethune's blue titanium finishing. The "Kind of Blue" name refers to the blued titanium that appears across case, hands, and movement bridges. De Bethune developed their own titanium bluing process that achieves a depth of color not replicated by other makers. Strong secondary demand and the reference most frequently discussed in independent watch communities.
- Consider instead if:
- De Bethune secondary liquidity, while improving, remains narrower than Geneva Seal makers. The price point is substantial for a brand without decades of secondary market depth.
- 2OpenDe Bethune DB28XP · DB28XPConsider
DB28XP -- the ultra-thin De Bethune, a different engineering statement from the standard DB28.
- The case for it:
- The DB28XP achieves extreme thinness through movement architecture rather than simply reducing case height. A different engineering thesis than the Piaget Altiplano -- De Bethune builds thin through structural innovation rather than mere reduction.
- Consider instead if:
- The DB28 Kind of Blue is the more recognizable De Bethune. The XP is for collectors who specifically prioritize the thinness achievement over the visual drama of the blued titanium.
- 3Open
DB28 Tourbillon -- the complication version, adding a flying tourbillon to the DB28 architecture.
- The case for it:
- De Bethune's proprietary flying tourbillon, titanium case, silicon escapement. The DB28 Tourbillon is the collector's piece for buyers who want maximum technical complexity from the atelier.
- Consider instead if:
- The tourbillon adds price significantly. For most collectors, the Kind of Blue is the more compelling statement -- the finishing quality of the standard movement is exceptional enough that the tourbillon is not necessary to appreciate what De Bethune does.
- 4Open
DB2109 Grand Bleu -- the DB2109 collection with the celestial sky chart display.
- The case for it:
- The Grand Bleu adds a hemispheric star display -- a miniature platinum-set night sky under a domed sapphire crystal. The technical execution of the sky chart is extraordinary.
- Consider instead if:
- The celestial display is a very specific collector priority. The DB28 Kind of Blue is the more wearable daily piece with stronger community recognition.
Rankings last reviewed 2026-06-06. Editorial perspective only. Not financial advice.