The Chanel Premiere | family history
The Premiere was Chanel's entry into watchmaking in 1987. The case shape mirrors the octagonal Place Vendome column; the quilted dial references the Chanel No. 5 bottle cap; the chain and leather strap echoes the quilted handbag chain. Every design reference is internal to the Chanel universe. It remains primarily a quartz watch and a fashion artifact.
Chanel's first watch: the octagonal case mirrors the Place Vendome column, the quilted chain strap echoes the quilted handbag, and the dial silhouette references the stopper of Chanel No. 5. A wearable piece of fashion history.
1987 · First Chanel watch
The Premiere established Chanel's design vocabulary for watchmaking: the house's existing icons (the interlocking C, the quilted texture, the double-chain strap) translated into a wrist-worn object. The movement was Swiss quartz; the watch was not making a horological statement but a fashion one. It established the aesthetic template that subsequent Chanel watches would either follow or deliberately depart from.
No references from this era in the catalog yet.
1987-present · Quartz-dominant and occasional skeleton editions
The Premiere has remained primarily quartz throughout its production history. Occasional skeleton mechanical editions have appeared in limited quantities, but they are exceptions rather than the family's identity. Grail Atlas currently carries no Premiere references; the family is noted here for completeness and context.
No references from this era in the catalog yet.
How to read this family
What to know about the Chanel Premiere.
- Is there a mechanical Premiere worth seeking? The skeleton Premiere editions are collector items and genuinely interesting as fashion-house complications. They are rare and priced accordingly. For most buyers interested in Chanel mechanical watchmaking, the J12 or Boy.Friend Skeleton is a more accessible entry.
Related families: Chanel J12 · Chanel Boy.Friend
References in this family
No references from this family in the catalog yet.
Which ref to buy
The Premiere is Chanel's signature octagonal-case watch -- the case shape is based on the Vendome column and the stopper of Chanel No. 5. Introduced in 1987. Chain bracelet integral to the design. The automatic version uses an in-house movement.
- 1Openr-chanel-premiere-automaticConsider
Premiere Automatic -- octagonal case, chain bracelet, in-house movement, the most historically grounded Chanel watch design.
- The case for it:
- The Premiere has genuine provenance -- 1987 design, case geometry tied directly to the No. 5 bottle stopper, a design icon with 35 years of history. The automatic version with in-house movement is the correct purchase for buyers who want Chanel watchmaking credibility alongside the design.
- Consider instead if:
- Chanel secondary market for the Premiere is narrow. The chain bracelet is period-specific and may date the watch. Buyers who want an octagonal-case watch with strong secondary market should consider AP Jules Audemars.
Rankings last reviewed 2026-06-07. Editorial perspective only. Not financial advice.